On The Grill: Tacos al Carbón - Parados, Parillón & Pasadita
Grilled meat tacos, done the 'real' way, that is, over wood coals, are a rare treat in the city. Much more common are carnes asadas, fried on a griddle. But the smoky kind are the best. These are three of my favorites.
Mixed Company - Los Parados
This fabulous carny hang-out offers real tacos al carbón that is, meats cooked over coals on an open grill. Many places claim they do them but really sauté their meat on a griddle. Not the same thing. Costilla, chuleta, chorizo, pollo, they’ve got it all. The winner here is the rib-eye, a bit higher in price than the others but pesos well spent on tender succulence. The salsas, hand mashed and set in gigantic molcajetes, are superior. Varying hours are listed, but they seem to always be open, morning to morning. I was there recently at 2:30 a.m. on a Thursday night/Friday a.m., and a fascinating cross-section of worn out gay/straight bar patrons, thugs, off-duty whores and policemen were happily devouring their succulent char-roasted morsels of goodness, all the while downing ice-cold horchata or beer. And, it behooves me to mention the normally unspeakable “B”
word. Yes, the burgers, Mexican style (i.e. topped with salsa, bacon, cheese, etc.etc.etc.) are sensational.
Monterrey 333, corner of Baja California, Colonia Roma
El Parrillón is located in Tabacalera not far from Reforma. It’s a humble but hip grilled meats taco stand that hides between other run-of-the-mill puestos on a non-descript back street. A tempting list of less often seen carnivorous options such as panceta and several kinds of chorizo are made at the owner, Gustavo Trejo’s farm in the State of Hidalgo. They’re grilled to smoky charred perfection, always to order, and served with beautiful roast tomato and chile de arbol salsa, roasted nopales, piña, cucumber and sweated onions. Tortillas are the good kind, hand-formed and resilient. While old-fashioned bistec is a good place to start, I love the chorizo español: though nothing like I ever tasted in Spain, it’s tender and fragrant with garlic and paprika.
Calle Madrid near Paris, colonia Tabacalera, a block from Metrobus Reforma
Open Monday – Friday 11 a.m. – 6 p.m
Los Picudos, which opened in 1981, is a beloved institution in Del Valle. The aroma of grilled meat greets you from a half block away in this quiet residential tree-lined street. The usual bistec, costilla, chuleta and pechuga de pollo are offered but best is arrachera, chopped small with finesse. A huge molcajete of pico de gallo, a brick red guajillo and a green salsa as well as pickled onion with spiky serranos awaits to adorn these simple, honest morsels of smoke imbued carnivorous pleasure. That said, the rajas con queso taco is a good vegetarian option, the generous heap of asadero cheese grilled with strips of mild poblano.
Moras 230 corner of Miguel Laurent
Colonia del Valle
Open Monday - Thursday 1 p.m. -1 a.m., Friday, Saturday until 2, Sunday until 12 a.m.
Breakfast couldn't be finer than at Spice Everywhere in it's lovely new location Yucatán 147, Roma. Open Saturday and Sunday only, 10-4
Porchetta Pork House, Campos Eliseos 247, Polanco, joins the list of top artisanal sandwiches in el DF. Pork loin wrapped in pancetta and rubbed with herbs is slow roasted then made into pannini. That's all there is and all you need.
See: POSTS, above for 2008-2012
☻Mushroom Season in Mexico
☻La Casa de los Tacos
☻Aida: A Work in Progress
☻Book review: Yucatán
☻Porco Rosso raises
the bar on BBQ
☻ Thrill of the Chase/El Parrillon
☻A de Acento & Áperi, San Miguel
☻The Best of Talk of the Town Part II
☻The Best of Talk of the Town Part 1
☻10 Top Tortas in Mexico City
☻Treasures of the Centro part 1
☻2014: The 10 Best
☻Bug Eyed: Eating Insects in the city
☻Livorno & La Locanda
☻The Tamal Queens
☻Sesame - where pan Asian pans out
☻ Mercado Roma: where to eat
☻Mercado Roma - shopping
☻Morelia en Boca 2014
☻Best Cocktails part I
☻Best Cocktails part II
☻Chowzter's London awards
☻ Lusitano - Portuguese
☻Dominique is now a bistro
☻ Estiatorio Mythos
☻ Taco Hopping: el Centro
☻The Best of 2013
☻De Mar a Mar
☻Yuban great Oaxacan Cooking
☻ Acapulco puts on a party
☻Rokai brings a little bit of Tokyo...
☻Angelopolitano: poblano Condesa
☻Mushroom season in Mexico
☻Touring the world's best barbacoa
☻World view: Anatol takes the cake
☻Dim Sum at Jing Teng
☻ Food trucks in Mexico City, ...
☻Celebrating July 4th in Mexico
☻Lincoln stays mid-century
☻ “Best taco in Mexico"
☻Close to home: Maximo Bistrot
☻On the Town: Tapeando
☻Q&A With Máximo's Chef
☻The Best Thing I Ate This Week:
☻Tacos de Pescado
☻And the Angels Sing: Turtux
☻The Women of Mexican Cuisine
☻The Feria de Tamales -Coyoacán