New Discoveries: Around the City
ZONA ROSA / CUAUHTEMOC
Londres 190, between Florencia and Varsovia, Zona Rosa
Tel. 5511 4213
Open Monday-Saturday for comida only
The legendary Taquería Beatriz on calle Rep. de Uruguay in the centro, founded by one Beatríz Muciño Reyes, was the oldest taquería in the country, celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2007; then promptly closing its doors. We still have Beatricita, albeit with a little less atmosphere, run by the same family, where the luscious moles poblano and verde are served in large yellow tortillas redolent of roasted corn that aficionados of the original will remember. There are lines at comida-time for the $56 peso menu.
Victoriano Zepeda 80, Colonia Observatorio
Tel. 5277-4360Open Thursday – Sunday 1-4PM
Although located in a somewhat dreary neighborhood east of the centro, Casa Merlos is the best place to sample the regional cuisine of Puebla. The setting is rustic and homey (stucco walls and red tile floors) in keeping with its traditional family-run history. Appetizers include chalupas, (or “little boats”) a variation on the more common sopes. other worthwhile dishes are manchamanteles (tablecloth stainers) ,a juicy stew of meat and dried and fresh fruit, pipian, and of course, the renowned mole poblano. Casa Merlos features several seasonal festivals; in October up to 10 different moles are offered. ____________________________________________________________
Insurgentes Sur 4003, Tlalpan
Tel. 5573 4344Open daily, 8AM – 8PM
Located in the southern end of the city, the largest restaurant in Mexico (if not the World!) with seating for more than 2000 people, is the ultimate Mexican experience. On weekends there are mariachis and it seems as if half the city is there. Although the menu is large and features just about every Mexican classic in the book, the specialty is country-style barbacoa.
SAN MIGUEL CHAPULTEPEC
Restaurant La Poblanita de Tacubaya
Luis G. Vieyra 12, Colonia San Miguel Chapultepec
Tel. 2614 4707
Open daily 9AM – 7PM
This lively and popular spot serves good Poblano specialties (from the state of Puebla). Sweet and chocolaty mole is, of course, featured, as are rich and nutty pipianes. Sopes or a caldo de gallina make good starters, and main course can be composed of tacos of the various guisados offered. A satisfying accompaniment isarroz y plátanos.
SANTA MARIA RIBERA / TABACALERA / SAN RAFAEL
Antonio Caso 42 (between Insurgentes Nte. and Madrid, Colonia Tabacalera
Open daily 24 hours
This ancient place, a few blocks north of Reforma, has blue and white tile walls and groovy old signs. It is known for its excellent caldo de gallina or chicken soup, accompanied by hand-made tortillas and sopes, available round-the-clock.
La Oveja Negra Sabino 215, Santa María la Ribera (not on map)Tel.: 5541-0405Open Saturday and Sunday only$$
This traditional neighborhood restaurant specializes in barbacoa, roasted in maguey leaves, which they only make on weekends and holidays. Everything here is of extra high quality, from tortillas to salsas - be sure to try the nopales aztecas as a side dish. Curados of pulque are on the menu as are several other antojitos for those who don’t care for so much meat. Their sheep are raised organically on their own ranch, making this a true Slow Food gem.
see their website for location:http://www.lagruta.com.mx/
There are many restaurants on the road circling the ruins--an interesting choice is La Gruta, located in the depths of a cave by Puerta 5. It has existed since the turn of the century (there are photos of Porfirio Díaz eating there). The food is decent - Mexican standards a la Café Tacuba, and the atmosphere is festive and odd.
El Borrego Viudo
Av. Revolución 241, corner of Viaducto, Colonia Tacubaya
Open daily 24 hours
This legendary taquería specializes in tacos al pastor, de cabeza, suadero, and tepache, and if you are driving, has an enormous garage where you can park and eat – good for a late.night/early morning snack.