Breakfast With Lalo: Máximo´s chef does it again
Who would have thought it. The corner of Zacatecas and Tonalá, my home/work turf for over 16 years has become ground zero on the D.F. gastronomic pilgrimage circuit. First we watched a macabre artificial limb store transform into Máximo Bistro, just about the best dining spot in the country. And now, chef Eduardo García AKA Lalo has opened his eponymous breakfast–cum casual lunch spot across the street.
Lalo!, set in the ground floor of a formerly stylish ‘50’s apartment building, is redone in the mid century retro mode that the clueless landlords of the building did their best to eradicate not long ago. Seating is at a huge communal butcher block table and ambience is cheerfull and breezy
The breakfast menu offers an astutely planned combination of comfort imbued Euro, Mex and American classic breakfast plates. Any Francophile will be happy with the classic croque madames because all bread is baked in house and eggs, greens and just about everything else is farmed nearby and as organic as possible. One of my favorite starters at Máximo is the quintessential poached egg with asparagus and hollandaise and here it is refashioned as a breakfast special, 1 egg scrambled its mate poached, bread New England hearty. A winner is the eggs with lardo, cebollín and gruyere. Lardo, scary as it sounds, is nothing more than a type of bacon, and here it lends a salty smokiness to the proceedings. Be it known that all the preserved meats are made by the chef.
French toast, while pleasant, leans toward the sugary and the portion is lean – this dish could use tweaking. But breads and sweet rolls are buttery and are whisked out of hidden ovens straight to the table – croissants are currently in a state of flux – the chef told me he won’t be satisfied until the texture has that elastic pull so rarely found outside the City of Lights.
For those craving something sturdier, a classic pork in green sauce is beautifully presented with baby verdolagas (purslane) and weekends, a suckling pig is roasted for tacos.
Costs reflect the artisanal work so don’t balk at the $200 pesos breakfast tab. It’s worth it.
Zacatecas 173 between Monterrey and Tonalá, directly across from Máximo Bistro, between Monterrey and Tonalá. It opens at 7 a.m. and closes at noon, but shortly will be open for lunch as wel. Closed Monday
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